5 Compound Miter Saw
5.1 Compound Miter Saw Overview
The compound miter saw pivots left to right and can tilt on a secondary axis. Some models, called sliding compound miter saws, can be pulled towards the operate to allow processing of wider material. A standard miter saw only pivots left to right. All three types of these saws are often referred to as simply “miter saws.” They are also frequently called chop saws. The compound miter saw is primarily a carpentry or construction tool, but when used carefully, it is capable of the precision necessary for fine woodworking and furniture making.
Miter saws most often come with ten or twelve-inch diameter blades. The diameter determines the width of the possible cut. Material should always be cut lying on its face, not edge. There are some exceptions to this, but they are infrequent in an educational woodshop.
Do not cut rough, unsurfaced lumber on a miter saw. Large, heavy stock that has not been surfaced on the jointer or planer should be cut with the jigsaw or bandsaw. The miter saw tends to dangerously bind mid-cut when cutting rough lumber as internal tensions in the wood are released.
Miter saws typically have indexing marks to click into frequently cut angles like 90° and 45°. There are many blade types available, some designed for cutting framing lumber and others designed for crisp cuts in hardwoods or plywood.
5.2 Compound Miter Saw Operation
When operating correctly, the blade guard will rotate out of the way itself when the saw is lowered. Do not push the guard aside. Before taking a measurement, check your reference end for square. Never trust an edge you haven’t cut yourself. If you need to creep up on a measurement, the saw is capable of trimming less than a blade width from the material.
Letting the blade come to a complete stop before raising back up is a safety and quality issue. Prematurely raising the blade when it is still spinning can score the end of the workpiece. The spinning blade can also grab small cutoffs and kick them out at high speed.
If used for precision woodworking cuts, the back and underside of the cut should be backed up with scrap wood. Simple cutting trays are easily assembled, or double-sided tape can be used to attach thin sheet goods to the saw’s table and fence.
- Hold the workpiece carefully with your left hand, 6” from the blade. If this is not possible, use a table saw, bandsaw, or cut by hand.
- Use your right hand to carefully lower the blade to your workpiece and layout line. Make sure the blade kerf will fall to the waste side of your line.
- Raise the saw back up out of contact with the workpiece, and start the blade.
- Lower the blade slowly and steadily into the material, letting the blade do the work.
- Once cut, let the blade come to a complete stop before raising the handle back to the start position.
ALWAYS push the material tightly against the fence and table.
ALWAYS stand to the side of the blade.
ALWAYS ensure the blade has completely stopped before making adjustments or aligning with a layout mark.
DO cut boards lying face down.
NEVER cross your arms when using the saw. Use a clamp, or if comfortable, switch hands.
NEVER place your hand within 6” of the blade.
NEVER cut unless the blade is at full speed.
NEVER cut rough lumber with a miter saw.
